Welding Body Panels Without Warping
Anyone who has restored a classic car knows the problem: the MIG welder leaves hard, brittle seams that are difficult to work, and the heat warps thin panels. The Dillon torch solves both – and opens the door to classic lead loading as well.
Soft seams you can actually work
A gas-welded Dillon seam is soft and malleable. You can hammer, file and planish it practically like the original panel – crucial when the surface needs to be mirror flat under the paint. Hard MIG weld beads demand grinding, which thins the panel. A Dillon seam lets you work with a hammer and dolly instead.
Minimal heat spread – the panel doesn't warp
Dillon's patented mixing chamber runs at just 0.5 bar, giving a concentrated flame with a very narrow heat-affected zone (HAZ). The heat goes where you point it, not out into the panel. The result: straight, stress-free seams even in 0.8 mm sheet.
Lead loading – the original method
Before body filler, there was lead. Lead loading remains superior for quality restorations: it doesn't rust from within, it doesn't let go, and it moves with the panel. The Pro Kit's Acetylene/Air nozzle gives you the soft, low heat that lead work requires.
Recommended equipment for bodywork
- Dillon Pro Kit: 8 nozzles including extensions for exact heat per panel thickness, Acetylene/Air nozzle for lead loading, and extensions that reach inside sills and wheel arches.
- Welding rod H44 (1.5 mm): thin steel rod that gives soft, workable seams in body panels.
- Nozzle 0.5: the sweet spot for car panels if you're running the Standard Kit.
- Hose set and flashback arrestors for a safe installation.
Already have a Standard Kit? The Pro Upgrade Package gives you the lead-loading nozzle, the intermediate sizes and the extensions.
See the Dillon Pro Kit here.